Top Tools for Home Repair
by David Tenenbaum
You'd be surprised how many people try to do top-flight home repairs with bottom-of-the-barrel tools--or none at all. Many people ignore tools altogether. You know the type: They ask for help on a simple home project--a loose knob or a door that won't latch. You ask for their "tool collection," and they show you a drawer of rusty, outdated junk.
There's no sidestepping the tool rule: You need tools to do home repair. Although more tools are better than few tools, start with the essential, versatile tools, then move to the optional, specialized ones. You'll encounter less economic pain if you plan to buy a few tools before each repair.
The basics
So what should be in your toolkit?
A retractable tape measure, say 12' long, is a must for measuring and layout.
A square will draw 90� layout lines. Try those inexpensive, triangular plastic squares similar to Swanson's Speed Square.
For pounding nails, get a 16- or 20-oz. hammer, with a straight or curved claw. A wood handle costs less, but a fiberglass or steel handle is stronger.
Buy a selection of straight and Phillips screwdrivers.
Locking pliers, often called by the brand name "Vise-Grip," are strong and adjustable. Get a 10" size with a curved jaw. You'll use locking pliers in almost every repair; don't buy an el-cheapo!
One important tool is a home improvement loan from your credit union.
Arc-joint pliers, such as Channel Lock, adjust to a wide variety of sizes.
An adjustable wrench is a versatile tool for turning nuts and bolts without damage; 8" is a good all-around size.
Needle-nose pliers are excellent for electrical work, especially if they have insulated handles.
An electrical tester will confirm that a circuit is shut off, and safe to work on. The simplest tester--for less than $5--should do the job. Before use, check that the tester lights when plugged into a working outlet.
A wire stripper is the best tool for removing wire insulation for home electrical repairs. Most strippers also cut wire.
Time to cut
A wood chisel, say 1/2" or 3/4" wide, is essential for removing wood to install door locks and hinges. It's also handy for trimming molding, and countless other tasks.
A utility knife, with replaceable blades, is handy for electrical, drywall, and roofing repairs.
A wood plane or a Surform brand plane will shape wood and remove rough edges.
A hacksaw will cut plastic and metal pipe, or very fine pieces of wood.
Don't try to buy everything at first.
Cutting wood can be difficult without spending a bucket on saws. Hand saws are affordable, but it's difficult to cut a straight line with them. Try a saw with the new tooth design used on the Stanley Short Cut hand saw.
Power wood saws are coming down in price, but unfortunately remain specialized. Here are some options:
Hand jigsaw: For making straight or curved cuts in wood, plywood, and drywall, a jigsaw is versatile and affordable.
Power miter box ("chop saw") saw: For cutting across the grain, you can't beat a miter box saw, which now starts at about $150.
Circular ("Skil") saw: For straight cuts in wood or plywood, a portable circular saw is fast and fairly accurate.
Table saw: For about $100, you can buy a small table saw that mounts on a workbench. The main use is ripping--sawing parallel to the grain.
The drill
A 3/8", variable speed, reversible drill is mandatory in every toolkit. Buy a good brand (ask friends for suggestions), not the cheapest drill in the store. Keyless chucks are a great invention; you will never have to hunt for the chuck key. To save money, buy a plug-in model. They are lighter, and you'll never need a replacement battery.
Plan to stash your goodies in a toolbox, so you can bring the whole kit to a repair.
You'll need some drill accessories:
A selection of drill bits, sized 1/16" to 1/4".
A selection of larger bits is also handy. Low-priced "spade" bits, will, with some effort, drill holes up to 1" in diameter.
A few power screwdriver bits, especially a #2 Phillips driver. (These days, electric drills are used as often for driving screws as for drilling.)
Plan to stash your goodies in a toolbox, so you can bring the whole kit to a repair. Or improve on a toolbox with a bucket liner, a pocket-filled cloth liner that drapes around an old 5-gallon bucket. The liner holds its shape, so the heaviest tools won't get tangled together at the bottom.
Meet the oddballs
Once you have the standard tools, you may be ready for some unsung heroes of the toolkit:
A heavy hammer will move a stud or pound a post much faster than a 16-ounce claw hammer. Get a 2- or 3-pound hand sledge, but only if your arm has the oomph to drive it!
A margin trowel, used for plastering and masonry, has a 2" x 5" blade. Far stiffer than the putty knives most people use to patch walls, a margin trowel is also a great paint scraper. Use it to ease up molding or other boards you want to reuse.
Save some money by leaving "commercial quality" tools for pros.
A short (15") pry bar is ideal for disassembly. The thin, wide blade slips into place without damage. Avoid those popular, spring-steel bars. A bar with a heavy, hexagonal stock gets results without leaving tracks on the wood.
This list may look intimidating, but don't try to buy everything at first. Start with a few quality screwdrivers, a utility knife, a locking pliers, a hammer, and a tape measure, then buy the tools you need for the next job.
Whether you are a pro or an aspiring amateur, the cost of tools is part of the price of any job. Save some money by leaving "commercial quality" tools for pros, while remembering that many imported tools are too cheap to work right, even the first time.
If you plan to fix anything in your house, remember the tool rule: Home repairs don't get done without an assortment of tools, so the sooner you start your collection, the better.
David Tenenbaum is author of Complete Idiot's Guide to Trouble-Free Home Repair and Maintenance (Illustrated) and the Complete Idiot's Guide to Simple Home Improvement (Illustrated).
January 31, 2005
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